Simple Sophistication at Via Emilia

Five years ago, RRR & I visited Via Emilia. I had just moved to New York and someone in the neighborhood had recommended it to me and when we walked into the small storefront with brick walls and tiny tables I wasn't expecting much of a meal. Boy was I in for a surprise! The pastas were outstanding, the service warm & friendly and I felt like I found a secret gem in Union Square.

RRR does not recall this meal but since we last ate at Via Emilia, they have moved around the corner to a much larger location. The exposed brick is gone; replaced with a much more modern decor but the meal was just as fantastic as ever!

RRR & I were joined by the lovely Contessa for this meal. We began our rediscovery of this delightful Italian restaurant with Insalata di anatra al profumo di mele verdi
(smoked duck, baby spinach, green apples and walnuts) for Contessa and Tagliolini al balsamico (thin noodles with braised garlic, olive oil, balsamic and Parmigiano Reggiano) for Ms. Foodie. Contessa's duck was sliced very thin, almost more like a proscioutto than chunks of duck.

My homemade pasta was unique and outstanding. The undisputed king of all cheeses added a salty creaminess to the dish and the balsamic counteracted the saltiness with a touch of sweetness. The pasta was fresh & light; the depth of the roasted garlic and the nuttiness of the olive oil had me fighting to not sop up every last bit of sauce! I needed to control myself since the main event was yet to come!

RRR chose to do two appetizers in lieu of an entree. The Tigelle (Modena’s little tile-baked mountain bread, served with soft cheeses, cold cuts and pancetta spread) along with the Polpettine di melanzane (warm eggplant patties served w/ arugula & goat cheese) were both wonderful. One of the soft cheeses was a tangy blue cheese and the meats were beautifully cured.

Contessa & I both chose the Arrosto di cinghiale (thin sliced wild boar roast w/ mushrooms, tomatoes and beans) as a main course. When the waiter placed the plate in front of me, I was immediately greeted with the pleasant fragrance of rosemary. The thinly sliced boar was tender and the beans with diced tomatoes added a Tuscan-inspired heartiness to this modern take on a rustic dish. Fan-freakin-tastic!

All this great food was enjoyed with a medium-bodied 2001 Toquato made up of 60% bonarda and 40% barbera. The only downside to our meal was that Via Emilia still does not except credit cards but if that is the worst part of a dining experience I'll take it and the prices were certainly reasonable and the portions generous.

Restaurants like these certainly prove that you do not need to go 'high rent' to get 'high quality'. I know that I won't wait another five years to make a return trip!