Run, don't walk to Bar Boulud!

Where do I begin with what is already is one of the culinary highlights of 2008?!?

I was invited to dinner this past weekend at Bar Boulud as part of the restaurant's "Friends and Family" event, a few days prior to the restaurant's official opening. For those who are not familiar with this common practice, the restaurant's staff will invite people to dine gratis (sometimes you need to kick in for beverage but should always tip and tip well) in order to sample the menu, work out some kinks, and receive feedback at the conclusion of the meal.

This is an opportunity to figure out what worked, what didn't and what could work better in all aspects: presentation, wait staff, kitchen and front of house service, wine list, decor, etc.

Think of it as a foodie focus group. I think of it as Ms. Foodie's fantasy come to life!

Chef MJ, Marathon Man, Rockstar and I began our meal with a tour of Bar Boulud's Charcuterie. Our selections included the Pate Gran-Mere (pork braised pate with chicken liver and cognac), Lapin de la Garrigue (terrine of slowly cooked and pulled rabbit, carrot, zucchini, spices and herbs), Compote de Joue de Boeuf (beef cheeks slowly braised with veal stock; shredded and combined with pistachio and beef gelee), and Saucisson Sec de Lyon (air dried sausage made in-house and hung for a minimum of one month).

If you read any of my posts recapping last year's trip to France, you know of my saucisson obsession. I wasn't disappointed. The thinly sliced, fatty, well-seasoned ham was so flavorful and complimented by the tart pickles and onions that accompanied it.

The terrines were equally impressive with just enough gelatin that it wasn't overly "gelatinous". The quality of the meat really came through and the terrines had just the right amount of spices with additional components to bring the dish together in perfect balance. My favorite of the terrines were the beef cheeks with the rabbit a close second.

I chose a glass of Beaujolais to start off my meal. For this event, we were offered wines by the glass and while our server recommended a glass of the Gevry, I chose the Beaujolais. I must say that I have not experienced Beaujolais this well-rounded since I returned from France! It was so good that I went back for a second glass before moving on to the Gevry, only to wish I had stayed with the Beaujolais.

You could really taste the terroir and it brought me back to our amazing visit to this region during their harvest. I echoed this sentiment to the manager upon exiting the restaurant, but I don't think he was as excited by this revelation as I was!

Next up was an item from the Cru et Custaces - the aioli. Chef MJ was very excited for this dish, having had enjoyed it earlier in the week. I wasn't sure of the draw until... the plate was put on our table.

The presentation was absolutely gorgeous! First to get a dunk into the aioli was one of the four thin perfectly salty bread sticks. I was instantly hooked! Each item was more delicious than the one prior, and keep in mind, this is mainly a dish of crudite! What's the draw? The shrimp was meaty, flavorful and not the least bit chewy. The oil poached cod was outstanding and even simple par boiled potatoes were fantastic. Once again, it just goes to show you that simple quality ingredients can make a huge difference. This is one of the more expensive items on the menu ($34 bucks) but don't let the name or the price deter you from trying this dish! I could have had this all night and been satisfied!

But wait, there's more....

Just when I thought it couldn't get any better, out came the main event. Coq au vin! Daniel's menu description of the classic French dish is to marinade the chicken overnight in red wine and then braise in red wine and a rich veal stock. Finished with button mushrooms, pearl onions and lardons this dish is completely decadent and truly authentic. Rockstar couldn't believe it was chicken! The poultry was transformed into a rich Bourgogne classic! Incredible!

We ordered a couple of sides to go with our meal, including a whole roasted head of garlic served with toasted country bread. It was delicious but can you really ever go wrong with roasted garlic? We also had the pommes frites which were thinly sliced and well salted but I've had better (namely at Pastis). Perhaps the only semi-miss of the night.

Of course, we had to find some room for dessert. We shared the Pain d'Epices, gingerbread with caramel mousse, topped with orange supremes and orange cinnamon ice cream. The staff even brought over a lovely fruit plate for Marathon Man since he has a food allergy.

We also ordered three cheeses which I enjoyed with a lovely dessert wine. I was impressed by Daniel's description of the cheeses on the menu: bloomy, earthy, creamy, sharp, goat. What a innovative easy way to navigate your way through a cheese course and ensure a well rounded selection. We chose bloomy, goat and sharp with only the sharp being somewhat pedestrian. I was a fan of the 'bloomy'.

When we did receive a bill, it pretty much used to gauge how much to tip our server. It wasn't that outrageous considering the amount of food and wine we ordered and certainly affordable compared to other restaurants in the Daniel Boulud empire. Most entrees were priced in the low twenties and the portions were just right. I must admit I am a bit concerned the restaurant's close proximity to Lincoln Center. My fear is it will be overrun with tourists although I am sure that was part of the master plan.

Run, don't walk to Bar Boulud (which officially opens this week) - I only hope you'll be able to get a table!