Monday, August 11, 2008
Tuesday, August 05, 2008
Prune: the Redux


Monday, June 16, 2008
Daniel: The Last Supper!
He had me at Bar Boulud.
That being said, for when it came time to chose what could be my last dining experience in New York for some time, Chef MJ treated me to dinner at Daniel, the mothership of fine French dining.
We began our evening in the lounge where I sipped two smooth delicious drinks: a rose martini followed by a bergamont martini. The rose martini was beautiful, complete with a rose petal encased in an orb of ice. The bergamont martini was tart and refreshing with a flourish of a flaming lemon wedge, the perfect cocktail to kick off the summer drinking season.
After saying au revoir to our gracious bartender, we were seated in the balcony area of the dining room. The dining area is grand and formal, complete with a balcony, pool and tent areas. This terminology is all a bit tongue-in-cheek with the exception of the tents since yes, there are actual tents in the corners of the dining room.
Chef MJ asked the sommelier to bring us a wine tasting with each course and we were in his capable hands. I was more than ready to begin my culinary adventure at one of the best French restaurants in the city, if not the country!
The amuse bouche arrived in a three tier serving platter. We began with a taste of briny sea bass and clams with apples that had all the freshness of the sea and followed with bites of the classic combination of lobster and avocado, a crab salad, and finally some beets with walnuts. We enjoyed these tasty treats with a lovely Savignon Blanc from New Zealand; crisp, clean and a perfect compliment to the fresh ingredients in the amuse bouche.
We also enjoyed a few of the fresh breads that were served tableside. The sticky sweet garlic roll was my favorite with the butter roll a close second. I was tempted to push my caloric limitations and go for the rosemary roll but I knew there was a lot of food to come and I needed to be ready!
My decadent appetizer was the mosaic of foie gras and black angus beef cheek with Satur Farms beets, wagyu carpaccio and peppercress; paired with a sweet German wine. This was an interesting wine selection since I wouldn't think a dessert-type wine would compliment an appetizer. This is why I am not a sommelier. The sweetness of the wine was just perfect to cut through the richness of the foie gras. The beef cheek was tasty with just a touch of horseradish and capers. The meal could have happily ended here, but it was only the beginning.
The palate party continued with an extra course of fennel-basil ravioli with littleneck clam emulsion, baja shrimp, cuttlefish, broccoli rabe, and chorizo. This dish was super rich and the small portion was perfect. The chorizo and saffron brought a zesty richness to the plate and the ravoli were al dente. This plate was paired with an absolutely exquisite white Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The drinks were getting the best of me at this point, but there was no way in hell I was leaving a drop of this amazing wine.
For my main dish, I chose one of Daniel's signature dishes; paupiette of black sea bass in a crisp potato shell with tender leeks and a syrah sauce. The fish was so moist and flavorful that it made the wine sauce simply an added yet unnecessary bonus. One of my favorite things is when a simple technique (like wrapping a piece of fish in thinly sliced potato) is well-executed and elevates a dish to a new level. I was equally impressed with the Santa Maria pinot noir that was paired with the fish. The earthiness of this wine was more reminiscent of a French pinot than a California pinot.
After cleaning our plates, we were treated to a visit by the man himself! Chef MJ saw Daniel on her way back from a trip to the lounge and brought him by for an introduction. Holy Merde! I have been in awe of this culinary god of terrines for some time, but managed to keep my cool and we chatted about coming to Daniel for my last great meal in New York for awhile. I did joke that he needs to expand the Boulud empire to Hartford and I think he didn't realize that I was totally serious. All from a completely selfish perspective of course!
We decided to pass on what could only be an extensive cheese course and head right for dessert. Hopefully you can follow the extensive list: raspberry-lemon vacherin with Thai basil meringue and raspberry marshmallows, a tasting of mango with roasted sesame ginger marinated coulis with cilantro, sorbet with kalamansi hazelnut mousse with Gianduja biscuit, milk chocolate salted caramel ice cream with bittersweet chocolate-praliné, crémeux Amer cocoa sponge cake with Caraïbe ice cream.
This all came with an additional plate of petit fours. Oh my! Extravagant even for a sugar fiend like me! The salted caramel ice cream and the hazelnut mousse were my favorites, although I quite enjoyed the originality and lip smacking tartness of the raspberry and meringue dessert. The only and I repeat only miss was the mango dessert; most likely due to it similarity to sushi than poor execution. (NOTE: Ms. Foodie is not a fan of sushi)
I managed to find a bit of room for a lemon meringue tart and a dainty smores-type stack of treats while I polished off the rest of my dessert wine. Then it was time for a tour of the kitchen!
By the time we got back there, most of the staff had gone for the evening and I stopped dead in my tracks to marvel at the size of the kitchen, a rarity in New York City restaurants. After all, less room in the kitchen means more room for paying customers. The tour also included a stop at the prep kitchen and I stopped to get a whiff of two large pots of stock bubbling away. After making our way through the prep kitchen we made a stop in the chocolate room where one of the members of the staff was prepping some chocolaty confections for the next day's service.
Speaking of service, let's just say outstanding would be an understatement. While I'm sure we were given the red carpet treatment due to Chef MJ's association with the company, I did notice how the staff treated the diners around us. I even watched as two members of the staff were asked to take photos of the same couple at the table next to us and in both cases, they graciously obliged. So whether you are a tourist, VIP or just regular Joe I'm pretty sure you will receive the same white glove service that I can only assume Daniel demands. And rightly so.
The bar has been set for Ms. Foodie's next NYC dining adventure. And it's been set pretty high.
Saturday, May 17, 2008
Wildwood BBQ: the latest in NYC's BBQ frenzy
On Saturday during a stroll to find lunch, Thighs declared "I feel like eating meat. Does that make sense?". Honestly, it didn't until we found ourselves standing in front of the latest entrant into New York's race for BBQ supremacy, Wildwood BBQ.
Reviews for Wildwood have been mixed, but I was certainly willing to give it a try. The woody airy decor was enticing, however, it did make me long for the former inhabitant of this space, Park Avalon, a former new American establishment in the B.R. Guest empire.
We began our meal with 1/2 dozen chicken wings; choosing the "rubbed and fried" version since Thighs was going to have her main with Wildwood's chipotle-raspberry sauce and we wanted to taste as many flavors of sauce as possible. The wings were juicy and not as heavily battered as I expected, a pleasant surprise.
Thighs followed with the Memphis-style baby back ribs which are "wet and slathered with Wildwood spicy chipotle and raspberry BBQ". The ribs were tender and the sauce was rich and hearty. The best dish of the meal.
I chose the pork spare ribs which are "dry dusted with Lou's sugar and spice rub". The ribs were meaty and on the lean side yet still slid off the bone with ease.
We enjoyed our vegetarian's nightmare with a side of sweet potato fries which were decent, but not as crispy or salty as I would have liked.
Overall, it was a noble effort by Wildwood to stand up to the competition and while it slightly missed the mark, this might improve with time. The quality of the meat may be slightly lower than the high standards set by Hill Country (an obvious competitor) but the level of smoke and flavors are on the right track. That is, until the next wave of cuisine takes over the city.
Labels: New York, Wildwood BBQ
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
Batali-Bastianich Double Header: Lunch @ Esca, Dinner @ Lupa
The dining extravanganza continued this week with a Batali-Bastianch double header on Wednesday.
Kenny and I had lunch at Esca, Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich's foray into the world of seafood with David Pasternack at the helm. I kicked off lunch with a lovely sweet rhubarb bellini while Kenny kicked back with a beer. After a short wait we were seated outside and treated to an amuse bouche of mackerel and white bean bruschetta.
For a first course I enjoyed the caprese salad with creamy buffalo mozzarella, oven dried tomatoes and basil. There is just something about buffalo mozzarella... beauty in it's simplicity that makes it an amazing part of any meal.
My main course was the polipo; grilled octopus with giant corona beans, preserved sorrento lemons and rosemary on a bed of frisee. Kenny chose the scallops with citrus and greens. I was curious to see how Pasternack's scallops would stand up to the amazing ones I had at Tocqueville the previous evening, and they actually fared well. The citrus added a nice flavor to the sear on the scallops and it was the perfect choice for a light lunch. I was equally impressed with the octopus, which can be either very good or very very bad. It had a great char on the outside without being overcooked or rubbery. The creaminess of the beans and the dressing added a nice balance to the dish.
Overall, I was pleased with my lunch at Esca and it more than made up for an abysmal meal that RRR and I had there about a year ago. I'm glad I gave it another chance!
Now that dinner was over, it was time to get ready for dinner! We had decided on a trip to Lupa prior to lunch at Esca and it didn't seem like it would be a culinary conflict, as long as I stayed away from the seafood offerings. Lupa is yet another jewel in the Batali-Bastianich crown, this time with partners Jason Denton and and Mark Ladner.
We decided to eat at the bar and after a short wait, RRR and I were perusing Lupa's fantastic menu. Having eaten at Lupa a handful of times, we were pretty well versed in the menu offerings, especially the house cured salumi and outstanding pastas.
I began our meal with another one of the delightful rhubarb bellini's I enjoyed at Esca a few hours earlier and we finally decided on a game plan. We started with an order of the coppa cotto and quickly added a creamy blended goat and sheep's milk cheese we saw being served to the couple seated next to us.
After slathering some fresh Italian bread with the cheese and sopping up some of the nutty olive oil served with our meat and cheese, we were ready for our pasta course. We decided to split the asparagus cappellacci and ramps, a creamy unique mix of fresh veggies and creamy pasta. The cappellacci were shaped like small envelopes with a delightful package of asparagus and sharp fresh ramps. Absolutely wonderful!
For our main course, we split the pork shoulder with treviso and aceto. The pork was fork tender and melted in our mouths. The aceto provided a bit of sweet richness and I'm certainly glad we decided to split this dish, I would have been jealous if RRR got to enjoy this all about herself. Did they cook this all day? Oh my!
Once again, we ate ourselves into oblivion and we unable to muster up enough of an appetite for dessert which was fine since of all that Lupa does so right, the desserts are fairly unimpressive in my book.
What an outstanding culinary day!
Labels: Esca, Joe Bastianich, Lupa, Mario Batali, New York
Tuesday, May 13, 2008
Tocqueville - Still the best restaurant in Union Square
Tonight RRR and I treated ourselves to dinner at Tocqueville. In the early incarnation of this blog, I declared Tocqueville to be one of my top three restaurant choices in the city. Will it still fare as well?
Since that post, Marco Moreria and his wife Jo-Ann Makovitzky, have expanded Tocqueville into the larger space next door and opened a Japanese restaurant, 15 East, in Tocqueville's former home, so this was our first foray into the new digs.
RRR and I were in a celebratory mood so after enjoying our amuse bouche, we decided to treat ourselves to the calorically decadent short rib and Hudson Valley foie gras ravioli appetizer. The ravioli were served with some wilted arugula which gave the pasta a peppery bite and worked in perfect harmony with the richness of the short ribs and foie gras. Pecorino cheese added some saltiness to the plate and we debated the other spice we tasted in the dish. Fennel seed? Cumin? Simply a red wine braise of the short ribs? It was so simple, so rich, mouthwatering and utterly amazing. I could have ended the meal here and been completely satisfied.
While waiting for our entrees, we were treated to some white asparagus, courtesy of the chef. We believe this was mainly due to the extremely long wait between our first and main courses. This seemed to have been a theme in the dining room this evening; since many tables were sat simultaneously and the kitchen became a bit backed up. However, our server kept checking in and the sommelier kept the wine flowing, so all was good in the proverbial hood.
When our mains finally arrived, I was treated to Tocqueville's signature dish, seared diver sea scallops and foie gras. This was the dish that caused me to obsess over Tocqueville in the first place, so it seemed fitting to return to my 'first love'. I was not disappointed. The scallops were perfectly seared and seasoned and the lightness of the fish held up well to the richness of the foie gras.
RRR enjoyed the local wild striped bass poached in asparagus vichyssoise, with rutabaga purée, white and green asparagus. The fish had a great char on the outside and was moist and extremely tasty. The asparagus was thinly sliced and perfectly seasoned. It was such a standout that the asparagus would have worked well on it's own.
By the time we finished with our main courses, we were a bit too sleepy (I think I was in a foie gras induced coma) to enjoy dessert so we decided to call it a night. On the way out, we found Marco sitting at the bar and struck up a conversation (I used to sell Marco potatoes and tomatoes during a stint years ago at the Union Square Greenmarket). Jo-Ann joined the conversation shortly thereafter and the couple were quite charming. I certainly think it added to RRR's "I am dining like a rockstar" experience!
Labels: New York, Tocqueville, Union Square
Sunday, May 11, 2008
Drunch: The Redux



On a more positive note, I chose to polish off the meal with a surprisingly delicious ricotta cheesecake, complete with fresh fruit. I usually skip dessert and decided to treat myself this go around and it was well worth it.
Labels: Drunch, Il Bastardo, New York
Tuesday, May 06, 2008
A Carnivore's Dream at Hill Country




Labels: Hill Country, New York
Tuesday, April 29, 2008
Happy Birthday Ms. Foodie
For Ms Foodie's birthday, Chef MJ spearheaded a dinner get together for a small group of ten. Paladar offered a great deal of three appetizers, three entress and three desserts served family style for $36 per person. Not a bad deal when you are looking for a nice meal before a night of drinking. Everything was as good as it looks and I think I have to get back there soon!
Here's the menu we decided upon:
Empanadas: Seasoned flour turnovers filled with chicken picadillo, served with smoked tomato salsa
Costillas 'LES' Pork Spare Ribs: with guava BBQ sauce, served with mango, jicama & cabbage slaw
Marinero Fish: ceviche with habanero, lemon & citrus segments
Pan Roasted Market Fish With coconut clam rice & orange rocoto chile vinagrette
Carne Asada: Grilled sirloin steak with salsa verde,yucca con mojo & bitter greens salad
Pollo Asado: Adobo-rubbed chicken with roasted garlic chipotle glaze, & sautéed hominy
For dessert, I chose the tres leche cake (much better than I anticipated), the flourless chocolate cake and the bananas soaked in rum. They also brought over some coconut ice cream complete with a birthday candle. It doesn't get much better than this.
Labels: Lower East Side, New York, Paladar
Monday, March 17, 2008
Shake Shack: Open for Business


Finally, my double stack and cheese fries I was splitting with MJ were ready. I was a bit disappointed that my double stack did not have one cheeseburger and 'shroom burger as promised but I was too hungry to argue. The burgers were juicy and tasty.

Labels: hamburgers, New York, Shake Shack
Wednesday, March 12, 2008
Borgo Antico - A neighborhood gem
MPV came into the city last night and I found myself struggling to pick a restaurant. I wanted somewhere low key and casual, with great food. Ideally, it would be one of the few places left in my Union Square neighborhood where I've never been eaten before.
The amount of restaurant choices sometimes leaves me paralyzed by indecision. In the embarrassment of culinary riches that is the New York City dining scene 'too much' can often be as frustrating as 'not enough'. (What a rough life, huh?)
The eventual winner: Borgo Antico!




Labels: Borgo Antico, New York, Union Square
Thursday, March 06, 2008
"Un-Wined" Wednesday's at Choice Kitchen

The atmosphere at Choice is pretty relaxed. There was a decent amount of people there but you were certainly able to talk to your companions without having to scream over the innocuous soundtrack. I was one of the last to arrive (par for the course with post work get togethers) and the wine ordering was well underway so I just went with the proverbial flow.


The few misses on the appetizers menu were certainly overshadowed by the hits. The nachos needed a bigger dish to spread out the cheese which was instead stuck in clumps to some of the chips. Of course, that did not stop me from devouring the bulk of the bowl. And I've already mentioned the curious Mediterranean delight.
Labels: Choice Kitchen, New York
Monday, February 18, 2008
Otto: the perfect start to a bachelorette party!

The caveat? You have two hours to imbibe and eat to your heart's content - that's it. Not bad though when there is a long night of drinking ahead but there was a sense of urgency to drink as much wine as possible and eat quickly.
The bread came with three dipping sauces: a truffled honey, roasted pears with a nice kick of pepperoncino, and a sweet cherry sauce. I particularly enjoyed the pears; the perfect balance of sweet and savory.

For me, the meal could have ended here but it was only just the beginning. Next came two salads and bruschetta with roasted leeks. The leeks were pretty good, but honestly, not the best choice to eat on a night of flirting with guys and carousing with your girlfriends.


Pepperoni was a heartier meatier

And just when I thought I couldn't possibly eat any more out came dessert, an assortment of gelatos with plenty of spoons for the group.

Some of the girls were distracted by the loud clublike soundtrack of the restaurant. I was distracted by my conflicting thoughts on Otto, a restaurant I had not been to in at least a year. It is difficult to judge a restaurant by a group meal and I am not sure if Otto has jumped the proverbial shark and become yet another rustic pizza joint. Perhaps some more research is in order...
Tuesday, January 15, 2008
Da Andrea con Andrea!



Monday, January 07, 2008
Run, don't walk to Bar Boulud!

Chef MJ, Marathon Man, Rockstar and I began our meal with a tour of Bar Boulud's Charcuterie. Our selections included the Pate Gran-Mere (pork braised pate with chicken liver and cognac), Lapin de la Garrigue (terrine of slowly cooked and pulled rabbit, carrot, zucchini, spices and herbs), Compote de Joue de Boeuf (beef cheeks slowly braised with veal stock; shredded and combined with pistachio and beef gelee), and Saucisson Sec de Lyon (air dried sausage made in-house and hung for a minimum of one month).
If you read any of my posts recapping last year's trip to France, you know of my saucisson obsession. I wasn't disappointed. The thinly sliced, fatty, well-seasoned ham was so flavorful and complimented by the tart pickles and onions that accompanied it.
The terrines were equally impressive with just enough gelatin that it wasn't overly "gelatinous". The quality of the meat really came through and the terrines had just the right amount of spices with additional components to bring the dish together in perfect balance. My favorite of the terrines were the beef cheeks with the rabbit a close second.
I chose a glass of Beaujolais to start off my meal. For this event, we were offered wines by the glass and while our server recommended a glass of the Gevry, I chose the Beaujolais. I must say that I have not experienced Beaujolais this well-rounded since I returned from France! It was so good that I went back for a second glass before moving on to the Gevry, only to wish I had stayed with the Beaujolais.
You could really taste the terroir and it brought me back to our amazing visit to this region during their harvest. I echoed this sentiment to the manager upon exiting the restaurant, but I don't think he was as excited by this revelation as I was!
Next up was an item from the Cru et Custaces - the aioli. Chef MJ was very excited for this dish, having had enjoyed it earlier in the week. I wasn't sure of the draw until... the plate was put on our table.
The presentation was absolutely gorgeous! First to get a dunk into the aioli was one of the four thin perfectly salty bread sticks. I was instantly hooked! Each item was more delicious than the one prior, and keep in mind, this is mainly a dish of crudite! What's the draw? The shrimp was meaty, flavorful and not the least bit chewy. The oil poached cod was outstanding and even simple par boiled potatoes were fantastic. Once again, it just goes to show you that simple quality ingredients can make a huge difference. This is one of the more expensive items on the menu ($34 bucks) but don't let the name or the price deter you from trying this dish! I could have had this all night and been satisfied!
But wait, there's more....
Just when I thought it couldn't get any better, out came the main event. Coq au vin! Daniel's menu description of the classic French dish is to marinade the chicken overnight in red wine and then braise in red wine and a rich veal stock. Finished with button mushrooms, pearl onions and lardons this dish is completely decadent and truly authentic. Rockstar couldn't believe it was chicken! The poultry was transformed into a rich Bourgogne classic! Incredible!
We ordered a couple of sides to go with our meal, including a whole roasted head of garlic served with toasted country bread. It was delicious but can you really ever go wrong with roasted garlic? We also had the pommes frites which were thinly sliced and well salted but I've had better (namely at Pastis). Perhaps the only semi-miss of the night.
Of course, we had to find some room for dessert. We shared the Pain d'Epices, gingerbread with caramel mousse, topped with orange supremes and orange cinnamon ice cream. The staff even brought over a lovely fruit plate for Marathon Man since he has a food allergy.
We also ordered three cheeses which I enjoyed with a lovely dessert wine. I was impressed by Daniel's description of the cheeses on the menu: bloomy, earthy, creamy, sharp, goat. What a innovative easy way to navigate your way through a cheese course and ensure a well rounded selection. We chose bloomy, goat and sharp with only the sharp being somewhat pedestrian. I was a fan of the 'bloomy'.
When we did receive a bill, it pretty much used to gauge how much to tip our server. It wasn't that outrageous considering the amount of food and wine we ordered and certainly affordable compared to other restaurants in the Daniel Boulud empire. Most entrees were priced in the low twenties and the portions were just right. I must admit I am a bit concerned the restaurant's close proximity to Lincoln Center. My fear is it will be overrun with tourists although I am sure that was part of the master plan.
Run, don't walk to Bar Boulud (which officially opens this week) - I only hope you'll be able to get a table!
Labels: Bar Boulud, coq au vin, French, New York
Wednesday, November 28, 2007
Morandi - the Italian Pastis
I went to dinner with RRR and a few of her co-workers. Since I didn't want to freak out the old school finance dudes, I refrained from snapping photos throughout the meal, but that didn't prevent me from telling you all about Morandi.
Morandi is the latest venture from Keith McNally aka the dude behind Pastis, Schiller's Liquor Bar, Balthazar, Lucky Strike and Pravda; all perennial New York favorites. Morandi is his venture into Italian fare with some of the same approaches that have served him well in his highly successful restaurants. The decor is familiar, the menu layout reminiscent and the staff seems to have gone through the same training session. Hey, if it's not broke....
Anyway, onto the food! RRR and I started by sharing an appetizer of grilled radicchio and smoked mozzarella. The portion was a bit small (I would have preferred some more radicchio) but the cheese was quite lovely, with a nice charred layer on the outside and oozy smoky gooey goodness on the inside with just the right touch of seasoning.
I followed this up with pappardelle con cinghiale; fresh flat pasta with boar ragu. It was a bit of a risk since in the past, this dish (outside of Tuscany) can go very, very wrong. At Morandi, it went very, very right. With just the perfect portion, I happily finished every last bit of the tender slow-cooked boar and sopped up as much of the well-layered tomato sauce as I could using the fresh pasta as my vehicle. And with a bit of grated cheese to add another layer of flavors and texture to the dish it was quite lovely!
My meal was complete with a plate of mini-cannoli, a dessert I can never resist. The shell of the pastry was thinner than expected, closer to the texture of a sugar cone than a traditional cannoli. The filling was fresh and lemony with a nice strong flavor of pistachio. A load of powdered sugar and plenty of tiny chocolate chips gave the presentation a nice touch while adding to the flavor of the dessert.
I think the old school folk might have been a bit disappointed in the portion size and the rustic slant of the menu, however, if you are looking for a casual, reasonably priced Italian restaurant in the very crowded restaurant row of Seventh Ave in the West Village you really can't go wrong at Morandi.
Labels: Morandi, New York, rustic Italian