A Carnivore's Dream at Hill Country

On Tuesday evening, Goldie, Smunch and I headed to Hill Country for a second trip and a long awaited review. It took so long before I got around to writing the first review that I forgot most of our meal! After a bit of debate on whether to go to Hill Country or try Wildwood Barbeque, the latest to hit Gotham's burgeoning bbq scene, we decided to stick with what we knew to be quality.

The restaurant was pretty crowded for a Tuesday evening and there was a pretty long line at the barbeque counter. The good news was it gave us some time to take a peek at Kevin Bacon, who was dining with an older couple (his parentals perhaps?). After reviewing the extensive meat offerings, we decided on a sampling of everything!

We started out with what was the last beer can hen of the evening. To that we added beef ribs, pork ribs (just for moi!) and some lean brisket just to keep the gluttony in check. And then we hit the sides counter and got some beer braised cowboy pinto beans (again just for moi), white shoepeg corn pudding and some pickles (just for Goldie).

The hen was the standout item and that came as a bit of surprise to this trio of carnivores. There was a great hickory smoke on the crispy yet juicy skin of the hen and even if it was the last hen of the evening it was still moist and tasty. The ginormous beef ribs were tender with a nice layer of fat and I was a bit torn whether I preferred the beef ribs or the peppery slightly leaner pork ribs. If memory serves, I might have enjoyed the pork ribs more on the first visit, the beef ribs on the second. Either way, it's a win win for me... and a vegan's worst nightmare!

The corn pudding was sweet and rich but I think we were a bit more impressed on the previous visit. The beans were okay, and just okay, not a lot of flavor there with the exception of the strong green pepper flavor that came through even with a healthy dose of bacon. But then again, at Hill Country it's all about the meat, right?

I somehow found a bit of room for some sweets and we shared (although I semi-commandeered the dessert) Hill Country's banana cream pudding and hot apple cobbler. The cobbler was a bit dry and we had a better dessert on the previous visit. I did enjoy the banana pudding, however, it doesn't come close to my favorite Magnolia rendition.

Speaking of Magnolia, over dinner, Smunch presented me with a thoughtful gift of the "More From Magnolia" cookbook. Yes, the bakery that inspired the great cupcake debate! This could be trouble! Sugary, fattening, amazing, wonderful trouble!

NOTE: Smunch's beautiful photography is going to put me out of a blogging gig!

Black Pearl

After a glowing review in the New York Times' $25 and Under column; Goldie, Smunch and I decided to brave the crowds and give Hill Country a try. Touted as "one of the best barbecue places to open in New York City in a long time" we were curious to see if it lived up to the hype. We were not alone. Arriving at 7:45pm on a Thursday we were told that it would be at least an hour and fifteen minute wait and since we didn't want to wait quite that long and instead we went across the street to Black Pearl.

RRR and I have had lobster roll at Black Pearl a long time ago; when it was a window within Julep, an East Village dive bar. The owners must have had some success there and opened a true blue restaurant in Chelsea. Or at least I am pretty certain these guys are one and the same.

We were seated promptly which was surprising since I would have thought Black Pearl would see more impatient diners from Hill Country. We HAD to have the lobster roll so three orders with fries and a side of haricot verts for yours truly.

The restaurant space might have increased but the portions have certainly decreased. The roll was decent but not as buttery or toasted as I would have preferred. The lobster meat was sweet and with just enough mayo to coat the lobster without being overwhelming. But overall, the lobster was a bit (well) underwhelming.

The fries were thin and crispy with a nice crispy coating and just enough salt. And the string beans were decent with toasted pignolis added to the veggies to give it a bit more punch. Overall a 'decent' meal and I stress decent - passable, good fare but nothing outstanding.

Perhaps I am spoiled by my Cape Cod lobster roll?

Dessert fared much better than our main courses. We shared a raspberry and plum cobbler and a slice of key lime pie. The key lime was more of a tart than a slice of pie and was sweet with just the right amount of limey tartness. The raspberry plum cobbler was quite good with rich creamy vanilla ice cream, a generous amount of cake to absorb the oozy berry syrup. The plum added a nice sour balance to the sweetness of the raspberry.

Wildwood BBQ: the latest in NYC's BBQ frenzy

On Saturday during a stroll to find lunch, Thighs declared "I feel like eating meat. Does that make sense?". Honestly, it didn't until we found ourselves standing in front of the latest entrant into New York's race for BBQ supremacy, Wildwood BBQ.

Reviews for Wildwood have been mixed, but I was certainly willing to give it a try. The woody airy decor was enticing, however, it did make me long for the former inhabitant of this space, Park Avalon, a former new American establishment in the B.R. Guest empire.

We began our meal with 1/2 dozen chicken wings; choosing the "rubbed and fried" version since Thighs was going to have her main with Wildwood's chipotle-raspberry sauce and we wanted to taste as many flavors of sauce as possible. The wings were juicy and not as heavily battered as I expected, a pleasant surprise.

Thighs followed with the Memphis-style baby back ribs which are "wet and slathered with Wildwood spicy chipotle and raspberry BBQ". The ribs were tender and the sauce was rich and hearty. The best dish of the meal.

I chose the pork spare ribs which are "dry dusted with Lou's sugar and spice rub". The ribs were meaty and on the lean side yet still slid off the bone with ease.

We enjoyed our vegetarian's nightmare with a side of sweet potato fries which were decent, but not as crispy or salty as I would have liked.

Overall, it was a noble effort by Wildwood to stand up to the competition and while it slightly missed the mark, this might improve with time. The quality of the meat may be slightly lower than the high standards set by Hill Country (an obvious competitor) but the level of smoke and flavors are on the right track. That is, until the next wave of cuisine takes over the city.